Grand Isle: Louisiana’s Coastal Gem

whelp.....it's almost that time again, folks.  here's a little something to whet the appetite :)

          Do you enjoy lounging around on a semi-deserted beach? How about pursuing the hunt for speckled trout, red snapper, grouper, or the elusive king mackerel? Do you fancy the thought of kicking back at the camp with family and friends, anticipating the briny taste of the shrimp and crabs boiling in the pot, or the crunch of fresh fried fish fillets hot from the deep fryer? In your hand is a cold beverage and in your face a gulf breeze blowing, offering a cool respite after a hot day of trout fishing on the bay, or on the beach filling up an ice chest with freshly caught crabs. Grand Isle, Louisiana, may not be a mecca for those who relish luxurious accommodations, high energy night life, fine dining experiences, or shopping excursions, but to the fishing enthusiast, coastal nature lover, and anyone who generally enjoys a slow, relaxing time away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life, it lives up to the label placed upon it by those who love it best – “paradise.”

          Grand Isle is Louisiana’s only inhabited barrier island, and its only true recreational beach area. This little island, which is only seven miles long and up to one mile wide, has been a local tourist destination for more than two centuries (Grand Isle). Its storied past includes being an early home to the Chitimacha Indian tribe, sugar cane and cotton plantations, lucrative shrimp, oyster, oil and gas industries, and a popular haunt of the pirate Jean Lafitte. Because it is a barrier island on the Louisiana coast of the Gulf of Mexico, there have been many devastating hurricanes that have caused much damage over the years (Robicheaux). Today, approximately 1,500 locals call it home. This number can swell into the 12,000 range as the tourism industry thrives off of the bounty of the sea, and avid birders seek out this place of rest for migrating song birds headed north from Latin America in the spring (Grand Isle).

          Recreational activities abound in and around this place known affectionately to many as the “Cajun Bahamas.” Bridge Side Marina on the west side of the island and the Sand Dollar Marina on the eastern tip service thousands of fishermen and boating enthusiasts each year. Sport fishing reigns supreme as the waters around Grand Isle are home to more than 280 species of fish (Grand Isle). Charter boats may be hired, when the season is open, for off shore deep sea fishing around the numerous oil and gas rig platforms that dot the Gulf of Mexico in Louisiana waters, and in the open gulf waters as well. Speckled trout and the redfish that frequent the many inlets around the small islands and marshes in Barataria Bay are equally sought after. There are numerous fishing rodeos held each year and the largest and most famous is the Grand Isle International Tarpon rodeo - the nation’s oldest fishing rodeo dating back to 1928 (Ross). It is an annual affair that culminates with a full weekend of festivities in the month of July. For those who like simplicity, surf fishing is available on Grand Isle or off the adjacent (and uninhabited) Elmer’s Island beaches, the fishing pier at Grand Isle State Park, and the “old fishing bridge” next to the Caminada bridge.

In addition to the great fishing opportunities, Grand Isle beaches are normally clean and well groomed. The color if the fine sand is brown, which is the result of the silt from the Mississippi River that empties into the Gulf of Mexico to the east at Venice. Rock jetties sporadically line the beaches that are bordered by sand dunes planted with lush beach grasses and flowering vines. Sea shells share the stage with the occasional fish skeleton and jellyfish that have washed up on the beach. Porpoises are often spotted, and the ever present sea gulls and brown pelicans soar in the heights and then zoom inches above the water scanning for a quick bite. Flocks of sandpipers hop and skip, digging their beaks into the sand for tiny mollusks as the waves roll in and out in the never ending dance between the sand and sea.  Families stake their territory as they pitch their tents to provide shade from the burning rays of the sun.  The tents are not taken down until it is time to depart for home, whether that is today, tomorrow, or six days from now. Beach grooming equipment, squatters, thieves, and vandals steer clear when the tents are not in use by their owners.  It is the Grand Isle way. Crabbing is a popular pastime that involves putting out a line baited with chicken necks or leftover fish carcasses between two stakes driven deep into the sand a few yards into the surf.  When the crabs are running, ice chests are filled to the brim and a boiling pot at the camp is put to good use as the catch is cooked and eaten.

          Two water sports have recently been introduced to the island.  Kayaking has taken a firm hold in the area and a festival devoted to the activity draws kayakers from all over the world. Kayaking tours are available for both fishing and sightseeing around the island waters and into the surrounding marshes. Wake boarding has also been introduced to the island, and a new Wake Board Park has been constructed next to Bridge Side Marina. Other attractions include the Butterfly Dome, tennis courts, basketball courts, beach volleyball courts, and children’s playground areas.

          Something unique to the island is The Grand Isle Birding Trail, which was developed by The Nature Conservancy that links several areas populated by tracts of oaks and hackberry forests called “cheniers.”  Each year the Migratory Bird Festival is celebrated by bird banding seminars, birding tours, boat tours to the Pelican rookery on nearby Queen Bess Island, native plant identification tours, and a myriad of classes on bird watching and photography (Grand Isle).

          Visitors to the island have a variety of lodging choices to choose from, with several hotels that offer comfortable, though not luxurious, rooms. Other overnight accommodations include cabins and several RV parks, and renting a private camp also is an option. Private camp rentals are accessed through rental agencies on the island, and all that is required from the visitor is clothing, recreational equipment of choice, and groceries to “pass a good time” for days of seaside fun. For those who like to rough it and perhaps enjoy a quiet morning of surf fishing a few steps from the tent, Grand Isle State Park is located on the east end of the island, has a campground on the beach, and charges a small entrance fee. 

          Groceries, toiletries, and hardware may be purchased at the Sure Way, the town’s only large grocery/department/hardware store centrally located on Hwy. 1 - the main traffic artery of the island. In spite of the plethora of fresh seafood to be had in the area, dining out is not one of Grand Isle’s strong points.  Fast food restaurants include Subway, Jo Bob’s Gas and Grill, Bridge Side Marina Deli, Yums Deli Café, and Megan’s Snowballs, a very popular destination known for excellent snowballs, soft serve ice cream, hamburgers, hot dogs, and other typical soda shop snacks. The Starfish Restaurant is another popular spot for casual diners that serves up a mean fried shrimp poboy and succulent fried chicken.  Freshly boiled crabs and seafood are usually available for take-out from Carmadelle’s Seafood. Grand Isle’s first fine dining restaurant, the Hurricane Hole, opened its doors this year with a menu that features upscale fare.  There is talk around the island that the owners of the Hurricane Hole may be constructing a marina and condominium development to the rear of the restaurant property on the bay. There are also several quaint souvenir shops scattered about the island where vacationers may purchase the obligatory t-shirt, shells, and other beachside incidentals and souvenir keepsakes.

          Those craving a good margarita, daiquiri, or other alcoholic beverage  can find them at Island Daiquiri, Oasis, Arties, Cisco’s Cajun Cantina, or Rome’s Lounge.  Most of these night spots also offer entertainment in the form of gaming devices, music, dancing, and the occasional live band performance.

          Grand Isle has managed to survive and thrive despite the many disasters that have befallen it. Devastating hurricanes, oil spills, and coastal erosion have all taken their toll on the island. Its people, however, are tough and resilient, a true testament to the pioneer spirit of their ancestors. Most of them continue to make their living from the seafood and oil industries (Maloney).  Louisiana, with its lakes, marshes, bayous, forests, and diversity of fish and wildlife, has long been referred to as “The Sportsman’s Paradise.”  The little town of Grand Isle and its seaside rustic charm fits in perfectly with that moniker. The nineteenth century novelist Kate Chopin, who chose Grand Isle as the setting for her novel The Awakening, makes an observation that rings true: “The voice of the sea speaks to the soul” (Chopin 17). If you love the sea, the sights, the sounds, and smells that uniquely accompany living near it, a day on “the island” is just another day in paradise.

P.S.  This was my evaluation paper assignment in Eng.101 last semester, and was reviewed and edited by my personal hero and a darn good bff to have, "Dr. D." She wields a brutal red pen, and was impressed and downright giddy by my use of the word "plethora"  ;)  I got an A!